Dwayne Hodgson

A Portfolio

The work and adventures of Dwayne Hodgson,
+ Learning Designer & Facilitator at learningcycle.ca
+ Storyteller & Photographer @ thataway.ca

Filtering by Tag: tourists

Our Top Tens of Turkish Delights

Some places that we've been in Turkey. Click to enlarge the map. 

It is hard to imagine, but after 11 weeks and 3,500 km of bus, car, dolmus, kayak, balloon, bicycle, paraglide and plane travel, we are about to wind up our travels in Turkey.

It has been really amazing to have a significant chunk of time to hang out here, but in the end, we really only saw a bit of Western Turkey, and most of those places had been well-beaten by tracking tourists.   

Then again, Turkey has a lot of amazing of places and millions of people come here for a reason. But I feel like we've made a good "downpayment" and that we've left a few things to see in case we can come back here again.   

 

Cue the Top Ten Lists!!!

To reflect on what we've done and learned, I challenged Tricia and the kids to name their Top Ten Experiences in Turkey.

Here is what they came up with. Click on the buttons below the photos to see our lists. 

Dwayne's Top 10 Turkish Delights

In reflecting on our travels in Turkey, we're all writing our Top Ten Lists. (Click here to read the lists by Tricia, Zoe and Isaac). Here -- drum roll please! -- is my own top ten list (but in no particular order):

  1. Visiting the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sophia in Istanbul. 
    Two incredible buildings of historic, religious and artistic splendour, but there are many more!
     
  2. The tour of the Gallapoli battlegrounds from World War I,  one of many places where empires have clashed over this crossroads of civilizations. 
     
  3. Drinking tea on the back of Brian's boat and swimming in a salt-water hot spring in Çesme
     
  4. Traipsing around ancient ruin sites at Ephesus, Smyrna, Knidos, Xanthos, Letoon, Patara and Aphrodisias, and seeing a few excellent archaeological museums in Antalya, Cannakale, Fethiye and Istanbul. I hate to say it, but we've seen so many ruins that we're all getting a bit blasé about it: "Oh, look! More ancient piles of marble.....". Lucky indeed. 
     
  5. The rally car drive down the Datça Peninsula and the resulting unexpected, ocean adventure with our Aussie friends, the Stringers. It was a great, great day for a motorcar race, and a fine day for a catamaran ride in stormy weather. #athreehourtour
     
  6. Visiting the evacuated Greek town of Kayaköy, the inspiration for the novel, Birds Without Wings. It struck me there how virtually every place was inhabited by someone else before, -- the same goes for Canada -- and that we all tend to hide the shameful parts of our history.  
     
  7. Sea kayaking at Butterfly Bay, just south of Olüdeniz.
     
  8. Tandem paragliding from a height of 1960 m to the beach at Olüdeniz. Another one off my bucket list. 
     
  9. Hot air ballooning in Cappadocia, up to a height of about 6,000 feet and looking down n the crazy fairy chimney landscapes. I was very pleased that Trish, the kids and her dad braved the heights. 
     
  10. Eating amazing food at local Turkish restaurants throughout our travels (with only one exception!) and during our stay with the Indomitable Gauls in Antalya. This is definitely one of the world's premier cuisines, and even though 98% of the restaurants serve only Turkish foods, there is always something new to try. 
     
  11. Wandering the streets of Istanbul, sometimes getting lost, sometimes not caring, so far always finding our home-for-the-night despite the gnarled streets and steep hills. 

Okay, that was eleven, and some of those items are admittedly combos.....But we did a lot more than I can list here, so you'll have to go back and read all about it on the blog
 

On y va! / Twende tu! Tanzania!

In early December, we head off to Tanzania for a similar length of time. Tricia and I lived there between 1998 and 2002, but we've only ever visited briefly for work since, so this will be a bit of homecoming for us. We are also planning to do some volunteering with our former employer there, so it will be a bit of a change of pace from all of our touristing here in Turkey. But we do hope to take the kids to see some of the amazing sights in Tanzania. 

I'm hoping that my Swahili will come back and not entirely displace the French that I learned here in Turkey, as we'll need this again later on in our trip. Mais, nous allons voir / tutaona / we'll see. 

Trish's Top 10 Turkish Delights

As part of our last week in Istanbul, we're all writing down a list of things that we liked in Turkey. Here is my Top Ten list: 

Tricia in her blog post debut!

Tricia in her blog post debut!

  1. Travelling with my kids.  I feel like this trip is a third wave of travelling.  I started travelling with one other female (my sister, or my friend Connie).  Then I travelled solo for work, and that's fine, though frankly a bit boring. 

    Then when Dwayne and I lived in Tanzania, I felt the huge difference of travelling with a fellow.  I remember men on the street wanting to confirm that I was Dwayne's wife, after which they would ignore me (being rather like his property, I was thus invisible). 

    Now travelling with kids in Turkey is a whole other thing again.  People have been unfailingly kind to our kids.  It's been lovely.  And their presence has radically changed the way that Dwayne and I travel.  We knew we'd have to slow right down, which we have.  We have spent way more time hanging out in parks than we would otherwise.  We carry toys in our luggage.  We've got a soccer ball that gets deflated when we're moving, and immediately inflated again when we arrive at the next destination.  We've got Lego, markers and other craft supplies, a frisbee, a kite...  It's a whole other thing, traveling with kids.  I'm so glad we're doing this.
     
  2. Cappadocia.  For me, this was the best part of Turkey.  A fabulous mixture of hiking, exploring caves, rocky beauty and wonder, and fascinating history.  The underground cities were amazing, as was the balloon ride.
     
  3. The ruins.  That includes Ephesus, Knidos, Aphrodisias, the agora in Izmir and more besides.  Folks here through the ages built stuff that lasts.  It's been fun to walk through history, instead of only seeing it cased up under glass in museums.  Here we could sit down and read from e-books in the library of Celsus, stand in the porticos, walk on the marble walk ways, and climb around the temples, do our own races in a stadium, strut and sing in ancient theatres, and debate in council chambers.  Super cool.
     
  4. The ease of travel here.  Turkey has been a pretty low-hassle kind of place.  Buses are clearly marked, roads are smooth, we've been surprised at how easy going most merchants are, even in the grand bazaar or main tourist areas.  Maybe that's because we're in the off-season?  But we've found it remarkably easy to get around in Turkey.
     
  5. Grocery shopping.  I hate any other kind of shopping, but I like buying groceries.  It's so interesting to see what food is available, what's not, what's popular, what gets lumped together in one store, and what you have to find elsewhere.  For example, there's only a little milk available in the refrigerator section, but there umpteen different sizes and brands of yogurt.  You can find a bit of produce, but it's often quite limited, so you have to find out when the local market is, which is chock full of a fabulous variety of fresh stuff.  There are special stores for chicken and eggs.  I don't know which comes first.

    (Now getting more specific....)
     
  6. The hike from Kayaköy to Ölüdeniz.  It was a beautiful walk, and the views over the bays of Ölüdeniz were wonderful
     
  7. Our day kayaking from Ölüdeniz to Butterfly Valley.  It was great to be out on the water.  And doing so on the day when hundreds of paragliders filled the skies was spectacular.
     
  8. Our first time WWOOFing.  We spent two weeks with a lovely family, hoeing, planting, piling rocks, and eating very well. I could WWOOF again.  Maybe in France?
     
  9.  Izmir.  It's a great town.  We had an AirBnB flat just off a cool pedestrian street full of life.  Izmir would be a cool city to live in.
     
  10. Simit stands.  All over Turkey, we've found hot sesame Turkish bagels (simit) being sold for 1 lira (50 cents) from carts on the street or at bakeries.  Yum.  The food in Turkey has been very good!

Zoe's Top 10 Turkish Delights

antalya2 12.jpg

As our time in Turkey comes to a close, each of us has written a Top Ten List of things that we enjoyed doing. Here is mine: 

TOP THREE    

        1. Swimming off of boats in the Mediterranean        Sea in Bodrom and near Knidos.

  1. Real rock climbing near Antalya with Guilliame, Lucie & Samuel. 

     1. Going on a Hot Air Balloon ride in Cappadocia

RUNNERS UP

  1. Visiting Pamukkale and Climbing up the travertine pools in Pamukkale. 
  2. Touring the ancient underground cities in Cappadocia, where Christians used to hide from invaders.
  3. Visiting Aphrodisia, an Ancient Greek-Roman city in souther-western Turkey. 

OTHER FUN THINGS

  1. Staying with Lucie and Samuel near Antalya (and speaking beaucoup de français!)
  2. Reading a book in the Library of Celsus in Ephesus.
  3. the ocean spray game with Isaac in Izmir
  4. Visiting the Aya Sophia, Istanbul
  5. Exploring Istanbul, in Istanbul.(:

 

Accidental Tourists

October 14-16, 2014 / Marmaris, Turkey

When we last left our intrepid travellers, they were escaping the tourist trap that is Bodrum for Marmaris...

It took us a few seconds to realize that the loud grinding sound was the rear axle of the bus scraping along the pavement. By that time, the bus driver had managed to pull over to the side of the highway as we watched one of the two rear wheels continue its journey towards Marmaris without us. 

We've taken lots of buses in our time in Tanzania, and we've had plenty of tires blowout, but that was the first time that I've ever been on a bus that has lost a wheel. 

Having safely pulled the bus over to the side of the road, the driver did what any self-respecting Turkish bus driver would do: he smoked a cigarette while talking on his cell phone. Within 20 minutes, we were crammed into the aisle of another company's mini-bus until the next town, and then ushered onto a third bus for the remainder of the trip. 

The kids seemed to take all of this drama quite well, but the delay meant that we missed our 1 pm car rental and had to settle for a short evening drive down the Datca Peninsula. The next day, however, we set out on a 2-hour rolller-coaster-road-ride down the peninsula to the ancient Greek city of Knidos,

Of course, no visit to an ancient site in Turkey is complete with out a stop at the restaurant next door -- I have never seen so many restaurants anywhere before --  so we enjoyed some kebabs and mesa's (cold appetizers) for lunch. Then, we heard a familiar voice: Dave, the Aussie, walked up the steps! They had moored their rented catamaran at the harbour, and were coming in for a bite to eat. 

"Of all the cay joints in all the world, and you had to walk to mine," I said. 

Okay, I didn't actually say that, but I wish I had thought of that at the time. That, or "Dr. Stringer, I presume", but I should probably save that line for Africa, come to think of it. 

But back to the story.....

The four kids hung out together as Trish and I took a look around the ruins of Knidos- an ancient fortified city of 70,000 people -- and then Dave and Nikki took us out for a ride on their boat. We headed east under sail power, and then went for a swim in another crystal-blue bay. But as we were returned upwind to Knidos under engine power, the wind suddenly blew up and the waves started crashing into the hull of the catamaran and through the open port holes.

"Batten down the hatches!" I helpfully cried. I've always wanted to say that. As a non-sailor, I'm not exactly sure what that means, but it seemed like the right thing to say in this situation.

A mad scramble ensued. 

Ten minutes and 20 litres of water on Jessica's bunk later, we forged on westward, fearlessly into the winds. After a quick round of happy birthday and some freshly-baked-on-board, cupcakes to celebrate Jessica's 7th birthday, we landed safely on shore and drove the twisty roads back to Marmaris. 

So, as it turns out, had the wheels not fallen off the bus, we may not have had this little adventure. It just goes to show you the value of being open to what happens, and how sometimes, something bad can lead to something unexpected and great. 

Fair winds, dear Stringers! 

 

Research at Beach Resorts

 

October 6 - 13, 2014 / Bodrum - Bitez, Turkey

From Izmir, we headed south by otobus to the city of Bodrum, and then took the dolmus (local minibus) to the nearby town of Bitez. The area is famous throughout Europe as a package holiday and yacht destination, and you'll see signs everywhere in English, German, Dutch and Russian.

The beaches typically have deck chairs right down to the water's edge, and then local restaurants and bars that serve Turkish and international food for double what we'd paid in other towns. We spent a few afternoons at the beach, and our road-schooling those days consisted of calculating the ratios of skin to tattoos to bathsuits -- on average 10:8:1 -- as well as the impressive degree of sunburn that the average European tourist can achieve of the course of a 7-day holiday.

Okay, I've never been much of a beach guy, but it was nice to take a dip and watch Trish and the kids actually float (in the saltwater).  We also went on two interesting excursions: 

  • a boat ride to visit several bays in the area -- each with their own beaches, bars, tourist shops, and requisite camel rides -- we decided to wait until Morocco. We all had a great time swimming in the unreal blue waters of the Aegean Sea. 
  • a visit to Bodrum's Castle of St. Peter -- a fortress built by European Crusaders (staring in 1404) to guard the harbour, and taken over by the Ottoman empire in 1522. This castle is exactly what my 8-year-old self used to imagine a castle would look like: square turrets, ramparts, ramps, dungeons, layers of defences and a really nice coffee shop. This castle is also the site of the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology , which houses an amazing collection of artifacts from the various cultures that lived here. 

Through an American that we met on the train back from Ephesus (Hi, Brant!), also met up with an Australian family who are also travelling through Europe. It was great to connect with David, Nikki, Rex and Jessica, and we even had them over to "our house" for dinner one night. 

Due to a couple of snags with the Air BnB apartment that we were renting -- Note to self: Turkish swimming pools are drained in early October -- we elected to leave Bitez a day early. This decision, as we later learned, would be very significant......

Oh no! a cliff hanger! My kids hate that when I tell them bed time stories. Stay tuned...

In the meantime, here are some pictures from Bitez & Bodrum. Roll the tape, Stan.....

Instantbulagram #1: street scenes are made of these

Greetings from Istanbul, Turkey.

After flying in-style-in-economy class with Turkish Airlines, we arrived safely on Wednesday afternoon and caught a cab into town. The cab driver responded to the onslaught of "traffic problems" with very pious profanity and several out-of-vehicle tirades at obstructing drivers. Forty minutes later, he gave up on even finding our hotel and suggested that it would be faster to just walk towards.....well....he pointed vaguely to somewhere back behind the traffic problem.

The hotel was actually in the other direction....

We have spent the first few days getting over the cultural shell shock of landing in the heart of the Old City, Sultanahmet and finding our feet again in the New City, Beyoglu.  We are grateful for the modest progress of:

 
  • finding our Air BnB apartment again without staring at the Google Maps app;
  • loading up our Istanbulkart transit pass to take the tram across the Bosphorous;
  • meeting up with some friends-of-a-friend-of-ours who set us straight on a few issues;
  • seeing a few of the marvellous historical sites in the Sultanahmet district;
  • jet-lagged kids sleeping through the night and even wishing they had stayed longer at historic sites (#roadscholars);
  • finding more-or-less the groceries we needed. NB: that bottle contained salted yogurt smoothie, not milk, Trish.

Today, Isaac even successfully haggled for his first purchase, using his winsome smile to dicker down the price of a Fernando Torres jersey from 45 TL to 25 TL and winning an affectionate kiss from the proprietor. Our Turkish vocabulary so far consists of 3-4 mangled phrases, so we are grateful for the kindness of local merchants. 

My first impression of the city is that it is a marvellous soundscape of cultures, and religions, teeming with pedestrians and small businesses that crowd up the gnarl of streets that are piled on layer upon layers of empires....

....Oh dear, I'm lapsing into competing metaphors. Clearly words fail me.  SI'll think that I'll just pour myself a bit more raki and share a few first impressions for now.... 

Tourists in Our Own Town

 

We are lucky to live in Ottawa. It is a both a nice place to visit and you really want to live here!  

As the capital of Canada, it boasts the usual buildings-of-national-significance like the Parliament,  and the Supreme Court, many tasteful national monuments to dead white guys -- and one to dead white women -- and an array of world-class museums. In fact, when we hit the road in 24 days -- zoiks!!!!! -- it may come as a shock to our kids that not every city has a "Museum of..."

(BTW, in lieu of summer camps for July and to kick-start our "road-scholars" project for the kids, I picked up a Canada's Capital Museum Passport that let's us visit up to 8 of the above museums in 7 days. It's a great deal, even if you don't manage to see them all).

Connecting all of these sites is either the Rideau Canal -- a UNESCO World Heritage Site that we can  skate on during the winter -- or a network of green-space and bike paths run by the National Capital Commission. It is a great city to experience on a bike. 

Ottawa is also home to a staggering number of festivals for just about any topic that you can think of: music of all types, animation, films, buskers, poutine, children, winter, tulips!  Although perhaps not as edgy as Toronto or as hip as Montréal, Ottawa is far from being the "city that fun forgot", and there is a burgeoning independent, hipster scene

So even though our year-off adventures don't officially start until August, we don't have to go far to be tourists in our own town. Come on up and visit Ottawa soon. Here are a few recents snaps to hold you over until then....